Istria: the back story

About Istria: the back story

By the ULTIMATE Zagreb Editorial Team

Istria, the heart-shaped peninsula at the top of the Adriatic, feels different from the rest of Croatia: greener, softer and influenced by centuries of Venetian and Italian culture. It is a land of Roman ruins, harbour towns, medieval hilltop villages and some of the best food and wine in the Mediterranean.

Roman Pula

At the southern tip of the peninsula, Pula was an important Roman town, and its amphitheatre, built in the 1st century AD, is one of the best-preserved in the world. The Temple of Augustus and the triumphal Arch of the Sergii still stand in the old town.

Venetian harbours

For centuries much of the coast was ruled by Venice, and towns such as Rovinj and Poreč still look like it, with bell towers modelled on St Mark’s, narrow lanes and harbours full of fishing boats. In Poreč, the Euphrasian Basilica, with its glittering 6th-century mosaics, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Istria feels different from the rest of Croatia: greener, softer and shaped by centuries of Venice.

Hilltop towns

Inland, medieval villages sit on hilltops above the vineyards and forests: Motovun, with its walls and views, Grožnjan, a town of artists and musicians, and tiny Hum. The forests of the Mirna valley below are famous for truffles.

Food and wine

Istrian food is among the best in Croatia: white and black truffles, excellent olive oil, prosciutto, seafood from the coast and wines such as Malvazija and Teran. Rovinj is home to Croatia’s only two-MICHELIN-starred restaurant, Agli Amici.

Our advice: base yourself in Rovinj or Poreč, rent a car to explore the hill towns, and visit in autumn for the truffle season or in spring and early summer for quieter beaches.

Opening hours, prices and seasonal openings change, so please check with Istria: the back story before you go.