What's onThis week in Zagreb
Your trusted, one‑stop guide to Zagreb
Zagreb is one of Europe’s most likeable capitals: a city of café terraces, leafy squares and red-roofed hills, where the medieval Upper Town looks down on the grand Austro-Hungarian Lower Town. It is a city to enjoy slowly, over coffee on Tkalčićeva, a morning at Dolac market and an evening at the theatre, and every winter Advent turns it into one of Europe’s favourite Christmas cities. Our editors have chosen the places worth your time, and our guides take you on to the Adriatic coast, starting with Split.
The Upper Town
St Mark’s Church
Climb from Ban Jelačić Square into the Upper Town, the medieval Gradec, and you arrive at St Mark’s Square, where the church’s roof of coloured tiles shows the arms of Zagreb and the old kingdom. Come back at noon to hear the cannon fire from Lotrščak Tower.
Plan your visitAdvent in Zagreb
Every December Zagreb becomes one of Europe’s favourite Christmas cities, voted Best Christmas Market in Europe three years running, from 2016 to 2018. Lights, music, mulled wine and food stalls fill the squares and parks of the centre.
To the coast and the islands
From Zagreb, the Adriatic is a few hours away. Our coastal guides take you to Split, Dubrovnik and Istria, and our island guides to Brač, Hvar, Vis and Korčula.
The Upper Town
Medieval Gradec sits on its hill above the city, a quiet world of lanes, palaces and churches, reached by one of the shortest funiculars in the world.
HOT TOPICS · Have Your Say
The latest from our readers: visitors and locals talking about Zagreb, the coast and where to go.
This week's pick
Dolac Market
Autumn fills Dolac with mushrooms, chestnuts, apples and pumpkins. Go in the morning, buy some fresh cheese and cream, then climb the steps to the cathedral and Kaptol.
Find out moreEvery list in the guide
Plan your day
Know your neighbourhoods
Upper Town
Medieval Gradec: St Mark’s Church, Lotrščak Tower, the Stone Gate and the Museum of Broken Relationships.
Explore Upper TownKaptol & Tkalčićeva
The cathedral, Dolac market and the café terraces of Tkalčićeva.
Explore Kaptol & TkalčićevaLower Town & the Green Horseshoe
Grand squares, parks, theatres and museums of Austro-Hungarian Zagreb.
Explore Lower Town & the Green HorseshoeMaksimir
Zagreb’s great park, the zoo and the city’s football stadium.
Explore MaksimirTrnje & the nightlife
Concert halls, clubs and bars south and west of the centre.
Explore Trnje & the nightlifeNovi Zagreb & Jarun
The Museum of Contemporary Art across the Sava, and Lake Jarun.
Explore Novi Zagreb & JarunOur favourites right now
Restaurants
- 1NoelLower Town · Contemporary
- 2Zinfandel’sLower Town · Fine dining
- 3Le Bistro EsplanadeLower Town · Brasserie
Cafés
- 1Cogito CoffeeLower Town · Specialty coffee roastery
- 2QuahwaLower Town · Specialty coffee roastery
- 3Eli’s CaffeLower Town · Specialty coffee
Bars
- 1BornsteinKaptol · Wine bar & shop
- 2Swanky BarLower Town · Bar
- 3A Most Unusual GardenLower Town · Garden bar