The spires of Zagreb Cathedral above the rooftops St Mark’s Church and its tiled roof in the Upper Town The Croatian National Theatre in Zagreb

The city guide to Zagreb, Croatia

Best of Zagreb

Croatia’s capital: a lively café city of Austro-Hungarian squares and red rooftops, famous for Advent, and the gateway to the Adriatic coast.

Your trusted, one‑stop guide to Zagreb

Zagreb is one of Europe’s most likeable capitals: a city of café terraces, leafy squares and red-roofed hills, where the medieval Upper Town looks down on the grand Austro-Hungarian Lower Town. It is a city to enjoy slowly, over coffee on Tkalčićeva, a morning at Dolac market and an evening at the theatre, and every winter Advent turns it into one of Europe’s favourite Christmas cities. Our editors have chosen the places worth your time, and our guides take you on to the Adriatic coast, starting with Split.

St Mark’s Church

The Upper Town

St Mark’s Church

Upper Town·Church

Climb from Ban Jelačić Square into the Upper Town, the medieval Gradec, and you arrive at St Mark’s Square, where the church’s roof of coloured tiles shows the arms of Zagreb and the old kingdom. Come back at noon to hear the cannon fire from Lotrščak Tower.

Plan your visit

Advent in Zagreb

Every December Zagreb becomes one of Europe’s favourite Christmas cities, voted Best Christmas Market in Europe three years running, from 2016 to 2018. Lights, music, mulled wine and food stalls fill the squares and parks of the centre.

Advent in ZagrebThe heart of AdventZrinjevac ParkLights, music and stalls under the plane treesKing Tomislav SquareIce rinkKing Tomislav SquareSkating in front of the Art PavilionStrossmayer Promenade in the Upper TownUpper TownStrossmayer PromenadeViews over the lit-up cityBan Jelačić SquareCity centreBan Jelačić SquareWhere everyone meets

To the coast and the islands

From Zagreb, the Adriatic is a few hours away. Our coastal guides take you to Split, Dubrovnik and Istria, and our island guides to Brač, Hvar, Vis and Korčula.

Split and its harbour from Marjan HillCoast guideSplitA city inside an emperor’s palaceDubrovnik old town seen from Mount SrđCoast guideDubrovnikThe walled republic on the seaRovinj old town from the seaCoast guideIstriaRoman arenas, harbours and trufflesThe fortress above Hvar townIsland guideHvarGlamour, Greeks and lavenderZlatni Rat beach at Bol, BračIsland guideBračZlatni Rat and white stoneKorčula old townIsland guideKorčulaA walled town and Grk wineKomiža harbour on the island of VisIsland guideVisThe faraway island

The Upper Town

Medieval Gradec sits on its hill above the city, a quiet world of lanes, palaces and churches, reached by one of the shortest funiculars in the world.

St Mark’s Church in the Upper TownThe tiled roofSt Mark’s ChurchThe arms of Zagreb and the kingdomThe Zagreb funicular below Lotrščak TowerEvery day at noonLotrščak TowerThe cannon and the funicularInside the Stone Gate shrineA shrineThe Stone GateCandles and a miraculous paintingInside the Museum of Broken RelationshipsAward-winningMuseum of Broken RelationshipsLove stories from around the world

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    Dolac Market

    This week's pick

    Dolac Market

    City Centre·Market

    Autumn fills Dolac with mushrooms, chestnuts, apples and pumpkins. Go in the morning, buy some fresh cheese and cream, then climb the steps to the cathedral and Kaptol.

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