The back story
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The back story
Upper Town & Kaptol: the back story
Two rival hilltop towns, a bishop’s Kaptol and the royal free town of Gradec, became one city in 1850: the story of Zagreb’s old heart.
Neighbourhood guide · Gornji Grad & Kaptol
Upper Town & Kaptol: Our Favourites
Zagreb’s old heart on its two hills: the cathedral and Dolac on Kaptol, the gas-lit lanes, St Mark’s Church and the Stone Gate in Gradec, and Tkalčićeva in between, with where to eat, drink and stay.
What's onThis week in Zagreb
What to see
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The tiled roof
St Mark’s Church
The Gothic church of the Upper Town, famous for its roof of coloured tiles showing the coats of arms of Zagreb and the Kingdom of Croatia, Slavonia and Dalmatia.
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The twin spires
Zagreb Cathedral
The great neo-Gothic cathedral on Kaptol, whose twin spires define the Zagreb skyline, under restoration since the 2020 earthquake.
Kaptol 31Explore View on map
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A candle-lit shrine
Stone Gate
The last surviving gate of the medieval Upper Town, now a shrine with a painting of the Virgin Mary that survived a great fire in 1731.
Kamenita ulica 3Explore View on map
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The noon cannon
Lotrščak Tower & the funicular
A 13th-century tower on the edge of the Upper Town, where a cannon is fired every day at noon, with one of the world’s shortest funiculars below.
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Views over the city
Strossmayer Promenade
A tree-lined promenade along the old walls of the Upper Town, with views over the rooftops of the Lower Town and a summer festival.
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An award-winning museum
Museum of Broken Relationships
A museum of objects donated by people around the world from their past relationships, each with its story, in the Upper Town.
Ulica sv. Ćirila i Metoda 2Explore View on map
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Zagreb’s café street
Tkalčićeva Street
A long, colourful street of cafés and bars, built over a stream between Kaptol and the Upper Town.
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A wartime shelter
Grič Tunnel
A tunnel built under the Upper Town in the Second World War as a shelter, now a cool walking shortcut and a venue for events.
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The sculptor’s home
Meštrović Atelier
The Upper Town home and studio of Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s greatest sculptor, with his work in the rooms and courtyard.
Mletačka ulica 8Explore View on map
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Naïve art
Croatian Museum of Naïve Art
A museum of Croatian naïve art in the Upper Town, with the painters of the Hlebine school.
Ulica sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3Explore View on map
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Under the red umbrellas
Dolac Market
Zagreb’s main market since 1930, on a terrace above Ban Jelačić Square, with red umbrellas over stalls of fruit, vegetables, cheese and flowers.
Dolac 2Explore View on map
Where to eat
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A konoba in the Upper Town
Konoba Didov San
A rustic Dalmatian konoba on a quiet Upper Town street, with dishes from the Neretva valley.
Mletačka ulica 11Explore View on map
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Opposite the cathedral
Kaptolska Klet
A big, traditional restaurant facing the cathedral, with a large terrace and Zagorje classics such as turkey with mlinci and štrukli.
Kaptol 5Explore View on map
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Since the 1980s
Baltazar
One of Zagreb’s best-known restaurants for grilled meats and traditional dishes, on Nova Ves for around 40 years, with a garden.
Nova Ves 4Explore View on map
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Opposite the cathedral
Capuciner
A cosy restaurant and pizzeria on Kaptol, opposite the cathedral.
Kaptol 6Explore View on map
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Zagorje cooking
Ficlek
A friendly restaurant by Dolac serving the home cooking of Zagreb and Zagorje: štrukli, stews and grilled meat.
Pod zidom 5Explore View on map
Cafés
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A historic café
Palainovka
One of Zagreb’s oldest cafés, in the quiet Upper Town, with a terrace under the trees.
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Sweet dumplings
Ferdinand Knedle
A small spot on Radićeva, on the way up to the Stone Gate, serving knedle, sweet dumplings in the Central European tradition.
Ulica Pavla Radića 23Explore View on map
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Pretty pastries
Meet Mia
A pretty café on Vlaška Street, known for its cakes and pastries.
Vlaška ulica 43Explore View on map
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Filter coffee
Filteraj
A small specialty coffee bar and shop on Vlaška, devoted to filter coffee.
Vlaška ulica 10Explore View on map
Bars
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An old-town classic
Pod Starim Krovovima
A traditional old bar on the edge of the Upper Town, beloved by locals for generations.
Ulica Đure Basaričeka 9Explore View on map
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Croatian wines
Bornstein
A wine shop and bar in a vaulted cellar on Kaptol, specialising in Croatian wines.
Kaptol 19Explore View on map
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Craft beer
Pinta
A small craft beer bar on Radićeva, with Croatian brews on tap.
Ulica Pavla Radića 3aExplore View on map
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A themed pub on Opatovina
Tolkien’s House
A cosy themed pub on Opatovina, the quieter lane parallel to Tkalčićeva.
Opatovina ulica 49Explore View on map
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An Irish pub on Kaptol
Potepuh Harat’s Irish Pub
An Irish pub opposite the cathedral, with beer, sport on screen and a busy evening crowd.
Kaptol 4Explore View on map
Where to stay
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On Tkalčićeva
Hotel Academia
A boutique hotel at the top of Tkalčićeva Street, between the Upper Town and Kaptol.
Tkalčićeva ulica 88Explore View on map
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Near the cathedral
Hotel Jadran
A small, simple hotel on Vlaška, a short walk from the cathedral and Ban Jelačić Square.
Vlaška ulica 50Explore View on map
Share your Upper Town tips
Know a lovely corner of the Upper Town or Kaptol? Share it with other visitors.
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